PR18
The quiet alternative to PR6
Levada do Rei from São Jorge: a 10 km out-and-back through Laurisilva forest to a waterfall and emerald pool, with one-tenth the crowds of 25 Fontes. No tunnels, no exposure, no excuses.
Curated by
Filipe Pereira
Founder & Lead Curator
Issued 2026-05-16
Valid through June 2026
01 · At a glance
The vitals
What you need to know about Levada do Rei before you book or set out.
Distance
10 km
Duration
3-4 h
Elevation gain
120 m
Difficulty
Easy-Moderate
Exposure
2/5
Type
Levada Walk
Status, May 2026
Open
Open year-round. No current restrictions. Permit demand is modest - even peak season rarely sells out. Some sections of levada wall were re-pointed in winter 2025-2026; the path is in better condition than the photos on most blogs.
Best season
Year-round - winter is dramatic
Spring and autumn have the best balance of waterfall flow and dry path. Winter brings stronger flow and lusher moss but also wetter footing. Summer is fine but the north-coast cloud cap often parks over this exact valley - cooler and damper than the south coast on the same day.
“Same forest, same kind of waterfall, one-tenth the hikers. Sometimes the answer is the trail nobody mentions.”
02 · Getting to the trailhead
How to reach the start
Map placeholder
Start: São Jorge · End: Ribeira do Caniçal
By car from Funchal
About 1 hour via VR1 east then ER101 north to São Jorge, then 3 km up to the Quinta do Furão area for the trailhead.
Parking
Free street parking at the São Jorge trailhead, holds about 25 cars. Spillover at the Quinta do Furão hotel (paid if you are not a guest).
Public transport
SAM bus 103 from Funchal serves São Jorge village - 8-10 minute walk to the trailhead from the bus stop.
Taxi or transfer
Funchal to São Jorge one-way runs €45-55. Most drivers will wait for a 4-hour return for €90-110 total.
Operator pickup
Fewer operators run PR18 because it is less famous. Protocol partners can do it on request, often paired with a north-coast tour (Porto Moniz pools, São Vicente caves).
Tip from Filipe
Bring rain gear even when Funchal is sunny. PR18 sits on the north-facing side of the island where the cloud cap parks. The forest is wettest where it is most beautiful - lean into that rather than fight it.
Driving yourself
Madeira rental from Funchal Airport, around €25-40/day in May
We use DiscoverCars to compare local agencies. Trailhead access on most PR routes is easier with a car.
https://www.discovercars.com/portugal/funchal?a_aid=Madeirahiking¤cy=eur&utm_source=Madeirahiking&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=pdf-pr18
03 · Route walkthrough
Section by section
Distances, landmarks, and what to expect underfoot.
0.0 - 1.0 km
0:20
São Jorge trailhead to the first levada section
A short paved access path drops to the levada start. The Quinta do Furão hotel grounds are visible left. The levada itself begins at a small dam where the water enters from a side channel.
1.0 - 2.5 km
0:35
Open levada with valley views
The first stretch runs along an open hillside with views down into the São Jorge valley. Several wooden viewing platforms; one has a bench. Forest closes in around km 2.5.
2.5 - 4.0 km
0:40
Deep Laurisilva forest
Old-growth tree heather and til. The path narrows to about 1.2 m with the levada on the left and a moss-covered rock wall on the right. Several small streams cross the path. Mid-morning light through the canopy is the photo prize on PR18.
4.0 - 4.7 km
0:25
Approach to the waterfall basin
The valley narrows. The path dips slightly and turns left around a rock spur. The first sound of falling water reaches you 200 m before the basin itself.
4.7 - 5.0 km
0:10
Levada do Rei waterfall
A 40 m three-tier cascade ends in a small pool. The viewing area is on a wooden deck with a low rail. The pool is shallow and cold; not really a swimming hole. Light is best 11:00-13:00 when sun reaches the basin.
5.0 - 10.0 km
1:30
Return via the same route
PR18 is out-and-back. The forest looks different walking east - the light direction reveals different features. The final climb back to the trailhead is gentle but persistent.
04 · Gear and safety
What to bring and when to bail
Required
- Hiking shoes - the path is mostly easy but mossy in places
- Light rain jacket - this is north-coast forest
- Water: 1.5 L
- Snacks
- SIMplifica permit
- Phone with offline map (signal drops in the forest)
Recommended
- A second layer for the cooler forest interior
- Trekking pole for the wet sections
- Camera with a mid-zoom lens - the forest framing is the picture
- Sit pad for the waterfall stop
- Cash for the Quinta do Furão restaurant on return
Slippery moss
The path stays wet for days after rain. Mossy flagstones in the deep forest are the most common slip point on PR18. Trekking pole on the downhill sections; trail shoes with good tread on any section.
Levada-edge awareness
The path runs alongside the levada channel itself. The drop into the levada is only 30-40 cm, but stepping into running water with hiking boots on is unpleasant and slick. Watch your feet, especially on selfie stops.
North-coast cloud cap
PR18 sits under the cloud cap on most non-summer days. The path stays beautiful but wet, and visibility for valley views can drop. Embrace the moss-and-mist mood rather than expecting big-vista weather.
Signal patchy in the forest
Edge of coverage. Pre-download offline maps. 112 emergency works at the trailhead but may not work in the middle 4 km of the forest.
Emergency: 112
Coverage along this route is patchy. Walk-out points: back to the São Jorge trailhead. The Quinta do Furão hotel at the start is the nearest staffed building.
05 · Fees and booking
Two paths to the trailhead
Path A · DIY
Book on SIMplifica
€4.50
per person
- Open simplifica.madeira.gov.pt and log in.
- Search "Levada do Rei" or PR18.
- Pick your date and number of people. Rarely full, often bookable same-day.
- Pay €4.50/person by card.
- Save the confirmation. Spot-checks are infrequent here but happen.
Path B · Protocol operator
Skip the portal
€3.00
per person, fee included in tour
For PR18, the operator value is the transfer (1 hour each way) and the local knowledge - this trail rewards the right time of day for the light, and operators know when to start. Pair with a north-coast afternoon (Porto Moniz pools, São Vicente caves) for a full day.
Protocol operators running this trail
Madeira Local Guide - Paulo Jesus
PT/EN · Private only · €66-114
+351 XXX XXX XXX
tripadvisor.com/madeira-local-guide
Up Mountain Madeira
PT/EN/DE · Max 8 people · €40-120
+351 925 964 335
upmountainmadeira.com
Explore Nature
PT/EN · Small groups · €27-80
+351 964 851 693
explorenature.pt
Path C · Marketplace listing
Levada do Rei Guided Walk
From €40 · 4-5 hours · ⭐ 4.7
If you cannot reach a protocol partner, GetYourGuide aggregates tours from multiple operators with free 24h cancellation. Independent listing - not a preferred channel for this trail.
https://www.getyourguide.com/madeira-l67/hiking-tc71/?partner_id=2VCHGBU&utm_medium=online_publisher&cmp=pdf-pr18
06 · After the hike
What to do with the rest of the day
Pair it with
Quinta do Furão
Cliff-top hotel restaurant at the trailhead. Lunch with full Atlantic view; the vineyard terraces around the property are part of Madeira's wine geography.
Porto Moniz natural pools
Forty minutes west along the north coast. Volcanic rock pools fill at high tide. Late afternoon visit pairs perfectly with a morning PR18.
São Vicente caves
Volcanic tube system, guided tour, 25 minutes from PR18. Indoor option if the weather turns wet.
Common questions
Is PR18 really less crowded than PR6?
Yes - typically 60-150 hikers per day in peak season versus 600-800 on PR6. The trail is similar in character (Laurisilva, levada, waterfall) without the tunnel or the queue.
No tunnels at all?
Correct - PR18 is one of the few popular fee-required trails with zero tunnels. Good choice for hikers who are claustrophobic or travelling with kids who would find the dark stressful.
Can I combine PR18 with PR6 in one day?
Possible but ambitious. PR18 is 4 hours plus 2 hours of driving, PR6 is 4 hours plus 1.5 hours of driving. Total 11+ hours including breaks. Better as two separate days.
Is there mobile signal at the waterfall?
Usually no. The valley walls block coverage. Take your photos, enjoy the quiet, and check messages when you get back to the trailhead.
Live trail status
madeirahiking.org/trails/pr18
Conditions change. The live page is verified against ICNF announcements and re-checked on a rolling cadence. Refresh before you set out.
May 2026 edition · issued 2026-05-16 · MadeiraHiking.org · Curated by Filipe Pereira
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