PR17
Jurassic Park geography in a hard 18 km loop
Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal: 18 km loop from Encumeada through tunnel-pierced levadas, ridge walks, and waterfalls in the central massif. The trail that earns its "Madeira's most dramatic landscape" reputation. Currently partially open.
Curated by
Filipe Pereira
Founder & Lead Curator
Issued 2026-05-16
Valid through June 2026
01 · At a glance
The vitals
What you need to know about Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal before you book or set out.
Distance
18 km
Duration
6-7 h
Elevation gain
700 m
Difficulty
Hard
Exposure
4/5
Type
Vereda/Levada mix (loop)
Status, May 2026
Partially Open
Partially open in 2026. The Encumeada → Pináculo segment is accessible. The Folhadal levada return is partially restricted. The full loop is not currently available - check ICNF status.
Best season
Spring to early autumn
May-October only - the ridge sections require clear weather. Spring delivers waterfall flow at the Folhadal cascades. Summer is the most stable; can be hot on exposed ridges. Avoid winter - the trail closes informally when fog parks on the central massif.
“If you want to know whether you actually love hiking, do PR17 on a fresh-leg day.”
02 · Getting to the trailhead
How to reach the start
Map placeholder
Start: Boca da Encumeada · End: Boca da Encumeada (loop)
By car from Funchal
About 1 hour via VR1 then ER228 north to Encumeada (1,007 m). Mountain road, dramatic.
Parking
Free at Boca da Encumeada viewpoint car park.
Public transport
No direct bus to Encumeada. Operator-only realistically.
Operator pickup
Protocol partners run PR17 as a full-day product (8 hours) with transport included. The logistics are easier with operator-managed transport.
Taxi or transfer
Funchal to Encumeada one-way is €45-55.
Tip from Filipe
Until PR17 fully reopens, treat it as a Pináculo out-and-back from Encumeada (6-8 km round trip, 3-4 hours). Saves the loop logistics and still delivers the ridge views without crossing restricted sections.
Driving yourself
Madeira rental from Funchal Airport, around €25-40/day in May
We use DiscoverCars to compare local agencies. Trailhead access on most PR routes is easier with a car.
https://www.discovercars.com/portugal/funchal?a_aid=Madeirahiking¤cy=eur&utm_source=Madeirahiking&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=pdf-pr17
03 · Route walkthrough
Section by section
Distances, landmarks, and what to expect underfoot.
0.0 - 2.0 km
1:00
Encumeada to the first ridge climb
Trail leaves the viewpoint car park and immediately climbs. Steep cobbled and stone-step ascent through laurel forest. Open vistas to the central peaks begin around km 1.5.
2.0 - 4.5 km
1:30
Ridge walk to Pináculo
Exposed ridge sections with drops on both sides. Jagged peaks of the central massif surround you. Cobbled path stays narrow. Major safety section.
Exposure 4/5. Turn back if cloud spills over the ridge.
4.5 - 6.0 km
0:50
Pináculo formation
The trail reaches a saddle below the Pináculo rock - a striking vertical column visible from the ER228 below. Views back toward Encumeada are the panorama photo of the route.
6.0 - 12.0 km
2:30
Folhadal levada (when fully open)
Long levada section through the Folhadal valley. Two tunnels - the longest 500 m, headlamp mandatory. Waterfalls along the path. Currently partially restricted.
Headlamp mandatory for tunnels. Two unlit sections totalling ~700 m.
12.0 - 18.0 km
2:00
Return to Encumeada (loop close)
The loop closes back to the Encumeada viewpoint. Mixed forest path with occasional ridge breakthroughs. Long; legs are tired by this point.
04 · Gear and safety
What to bring and when to bail
Required
- Hiking boots with good ankle support
- Headlamp - mandatory for two unlit tunnels
- Wind and waterproof shell
- Warm mid-layer
- Water: 2.5 L (limited refill on route)
- High-energy food for 6+ hours
- SIMplifica permit
Recommended
- Trekking poles
- Spare headlamp battery
- First-aid kit
- Phone with offline map + spare battery
- Emergency blanket
- Camera + lens cloth
Length amplifies every hazard
PR17 is the longest hard trail with permit on the island. Fatigue compounds the ridge exposure, the tunnel disorientation, and weather changes. Build in turnaround discipline.
Weather decides whether you finish
Cloud on the ridge sections is genuinely dangerous - 400 m drops in places. If weather looks marginal at Encumeada, postpone or downgrade to the out-and-back option.
Two long tunnels
The 500 m tunnel on the Folhadal side is wet and uneven. Headlamp not optional. Phone torch leaves your hand occupied at the wrong moment.
No signal at the back of the loop
Coverage drops to zero in the Folhadal valley. Pre-download offline maps. INEM helicopter is the only fast extraction from the back half.
Emergency: 112
Coverage along this route is patchy. Walk-out points: Encumeada viewpoint (km 0 / km 18). The trail itself has no mid-route exits. PR17 is the most committing day-hike on Madeira after PR1.
05 · Fees and booking
Two paths to the trailhead
Path A · DIY
Book on SIMplifica
€4.50
per person
- Open simplifica.madeira.gov.pt and log in.
- Search "Pináculo" or PR17. Confirm partial-opening status.
- Pick your date - allow 8+ hours for the full loop.
- Pay €4.50/person by card.
- Save the confirmation. Take screenshots of current ICNF restrictions.
Path B · Protocol operator
Skip the portal
€3.00
per person, fee included in tour
PR17 is one of the strongest "operator over DIY" arguments on the island. The logistics, the tunnel safety, the emergency response - all materially better with a protocol partner. Pricing reflects the value: PR17 operator tours run €80-120/person.
Protocol operators running this trail
Madeira Local Guide - Paulo Jesus
PT/EN · Private only · €66-114
+351 XXX XXX XXX
tripadvisor.com/madeira-local-guide
Up Mountain Madeira
PT/EN/DE · Max 8 people · €40-120
+351 925 964 335
upmountainmadeira.com
Explore Nature
PT/EN · Small groups · €27-80
+351 964 851 693
explorenature.pt
Path C · Marketplace listing
Browse Guided Madeira Hiking Tours
From €30 · Various · ⭐ 4.7
If you cannot reach a protocol partner, GetYourGuide aggregates tours from multiple operators with free 24h cancellation. Independent listing - not a preferred channel for this trail.
https://www.getyourguide.com/madeira-l67/hiking-tc71/?partner_id=2VCHGBU&utm_medium=online_publisher&cmp=pdf-pr17
06 · After the hike
What to do with the rest of the day
Pair it with
PR1 Pico ridge
Same central peaks viewed from PR17 ridge sections.
Bica da Cana viewpoint
On the drive back from Encumeada, the high plateau lookout for the cloud-sea after a long day.
São Vicente caves
Volcanic tubes on the north coast, 25 minutes drive. An indoor option if PR17 weather rules out the hike.
Common questions
Is PR17 harder than PR1?
Yes. PR1 is 15.6 km out-and-back at 1,000 m elevation gain. PR17 is 18 km loop at 700 m, but with tunnels, partial-opening complications, and more remote terrain.
Can I do PR17 with limited experience?
No. This is the fifth-or-later trail you do on Madeira, not the first. Build up via PR1.2, PR6, PR9 first.
What happens if I get caught by darkness?
Bring a headlamp regardless. Build in a 16:00 hard turnaround time. If finishing later than 18:00, navigate by headlamp on the final descent.
Live trail status
madeirahiking.org/trails/pr17
Conditions change. The live page is verified against ICNF announcements and re-checked on a rolling cadence. Refresh before you set out.
May 2026 edition · issued 2026-05-16 · MadeiraHiking.org · Curated by Filipe Pereira
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