PR21
A stone bridge between Madeira's two coasts
Caminho do Norte: 3.2 km of traditional stone path from Encumeada to Ribeira Grande. Short, steep, historic - the kind of route that pre-dates roads and still rewards walking instead of driving.
Curated by
Filipe Pereira
Founder & Lead Curator
Issued 2026-05-16
Valid through June 2026
01 · At a glance
The vitals
What you need to know about Caminho do Norte before you book or set out.
Distance
3.2 km
Duration
1.5 h
Elevation gain
300 m
Difficulty
Moderate
Exposure
3/5
Type
Vereda
Status, May 2026
Open
Open year-round 2026. No restrictions. Some sections were repointed in winter 2024.
Best season
Year-round
Spring through autumn for the clearest weather. Winter is fine if dry - the path can get slick after rain. Summer is hot on the exposed mid-section.
“Stone steps cut by hands you will never know, still serving the route they were laid for.”
02 · Getting to the trailhead
How to reach the start
Map placeholder
Start: Encumeada · End: Ribeira Grande
By car from Funchal
About 1 hour via VR1 then ER228 to the Encumeada viewpoint.
Parking
Free at Boca da Encumeada (shared with PR12, PR17).
End-point logistics
Ribeira Grande has bus and taxi access. Or arrange pickup at the village.
Operator pickup
Less common as a standalone. Sometimes paired with PR12 or PR17 for a north-side day.
Taxi or transfer
Funchal to Encumeada one-way €45-55. End-of-trail Ribeira Grande to Funchal is similar.
Tip from Filipe
PR21 is a short trail with long-trail logistics. The Encumeada-to-Ribeira-Grande transport puzzle is the real planning challenge. Operator transport simplifies this for a 90-minute walk that otherwise needs 3 hours of bus connections.
Driving yourself
Madeira rental from Funchal Airport, around €25-40/day in May
We use DiscoverCars to compare local agencies. Trailhead access on most PR routes is easier with a car.
https://www.discovercars.com/portugal/funchal?a_aid=Madeirahiking¤cy=eur&utm_source=Madeirahiking&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=pdf-pr21
03 · Route walkthrough
Section by section
Distances, landmarks, and what to expect underfoot.
0.0 - 0.8 km
0:25
Encumeada to the first viewpoint
Trail leaves the viewpoint car park heading north. Cobbled descent begins immediately. First panoramic break opens to the Ribeira Grande valley.
0.8 - 2.0 km
0:35
Stone path descent
Traditional cobblestone path - some sections original 18th-century, others restored. Stays steep. Vegetation thickens; you have entered the wet north-facing forest.
Wet cobble is slick. Trekking pole recommended.
2.0 - 3.2 km
0:30
Final descent to Ribeira Grande
Trail flattens through agricultural terraces. Stone walls, vegetable plots, the occasional farmer. Ends at the Ribeira Grande village edge.
04 · Gear and safety
What to bring and when to bail
Required
- Hiking shoes with grip
- Trekking pole
- Light rain jacket
- Water: 1 L
- SIMplifica permit
Recommended
- Snacks
- Cash for the Ribeira Grande village cafe
- A light layer for cooler north side
Steep descent in short distance
300 m drop in 3.2 km. Not as brutal as PR19 but enough to feel. Trekking pole helps.
Wet cobble
Same issue as all stone-path trails. Postpone if rain within 24 hours.
Two microclimates
Encumeada at 1,007 m can be in cloud while Ribeira Grande at 200 m is clear. Layers off as you descend.
Signal patchy
Coverage drops on the north slope. Improves at the village.
Emergency: 112
Coverage along this route is patchy. Walk-out points: Encumeada viewpoint (km 0, demanding climb back) or Ribeira Grande village (km 3.2, full services).
05 · Fees and booking
Two paths to the trailhead
Path A · DIY
Book on SIMplifica
€4.50
per person
- Open simplifica.madeira.gov.pt and log in.
- Search "Caminho do Norte" or PR21.
- Pick your date.
- Pay €4.50/person by card.
- Save the confirmation.
Path B · Protocol operator
Skip the portal
€3.00
per person, fee included in tour
For PR21, the operator value is the point-to-point transport for what is otherwise a short walk with awkward logistics. Often bundled with PR12 or PR17 in north-side day tours.
Protocol operators running this trail
Madeira Local Guide - Paulo Jesus
PT/EN · Private only · €66-114
+351 XXX XXX XXX
tripadvisor.com/madeira-local-guide
Up Mountain Madeira
PT/EN/DE · Max 8 people · €40-120
+351 925 964 335
upmountainmadeira.com
Explore Nature
PT/EN · Small groups · €27-80
+351 964 851 693
explorenature.pt
Path C · Marketplace listing
Browse Guided Madeira Hiking Tours
From €30 · Various · ⭐ 4.7
If you cannot reach a protocol partner, GetYourGuide aggregates tours from multiple operators with free 24h cancellation. Independent listing - not a preferred channel for this trail.
https://www.getyourguide.com/madeira-l67/hiking-tc71/?partner_id=2VCHGBU&utm_medium=online_publisher&cmp=pdf-pr21
06 · After the hike
What to do with the rest of the day
Pair it with
PR12 Caminho Real da Encumeada
Same start point, different direction. Pair them for a full day at Encumeada.
São Vicente caves
On the drive back from Ribeira Grande. Volcanic tube system tour, 30 minutes.
Porto Moniz natural pools
Further along the north coast. Volcanic rock pools for an afternoon swim.
Common questions
Why is PR21 so short with permit required?
ICNF treats fee status by historical and conservation value, not just length. PR21's original cobblestone is heritage-protected.
Can I do PR21 with PR12 same day?
Yes - both start at Encumeada. PR12 first (4-5 hours), PR21 after (90 min). Long day; works for fit hikers.
Is the original cobble visible?
Yes - most of the path is original 18th-19th century stone. Restoration sections are obvious by colour difference.
Live trail status
madeirahiking.org/trails/pr21
Conditions change. The live page is verified against ICNF announcements and re-checked on a rolling cadence. Refresh before you set out.
May 2026 edition · issued 2026-05-16 · MadeiraHiking.org · Curated by Filipe Pereira
Scan for live status